In 1891, Daniel Swarovski a fondat Imperiul Swarovski pe onestitate, inovatie si branding. El a recunoscut ca “diamantele” nu erau reale, era cinstit. Inovatia a fost o masina de taiat electrica: o metoda mult mai rapida de taiere a sticlei care a inlocuit munca lenta, manuala, facuta anterior manual. “Influencerii” de la Hollywood, precum Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe si azi Beyonce au construit brandul prin etalarea produselor sale.
Swarovski a mers pe val. La apogeul carierei sale, afacerea cu cristale Swarovski avea aproximativ 2.800 de magazine in intreaga lume, in 170 de tari si avea aproape 27.000 de angajați. Veniturile au atins un maxim de 2,6 miliarde euro.
Inovatia a sustinut Imperiul Swarovski. Compania a perfectionat acum arta de a crea cristale printr-o tehnica generata de computer, care face ca “diamantele” sa fie si mai precise si mai convingatoare. Casele de moda celebre au “flirtat” cu Swarovski, cerand oferte. Casele de moda precum Chanel si Christian Dior au “intarit brand-ul”, dar succesul lui Swarovski a fost construit pe imitatie. Si imitatia poate fi imitată de altii. Acesta a fost intotdeauna “calcaiul lui Ahile” al lui Swarovski.
Acum, compania austriaca se confrunta acum cu concurenta asiatica, reprezentata de firme care pot furniza acelasi tip de produs la doar 1% din preturile practicate de Swarovski, iar criza Covid nu a ajutat. Swarovski a fost fortat sa concedieze 6.000 de angajati si va inchide 750 din cele 3.000 de magazine ale sale. In Austria, aproximativ 1.200 de angajati au fost deja concediati, iar 600 de locuri de munca suplimentare sunt amenintate in 2021. Se preconizeaza ca veniturile vor scadea cu 30% in 2020, pana la 1,9 miliarde de euro.
Astazi, aproximativ 80% din companie este detinuta de membrii familiei Swarovski. Ei se confrunta cu o dilema: sa mearga “upmarket” si sa ramana exclusivi, sau sa mearga “downmarket” si sa deterioreze marca exclusiva? Fotografiile de pe Internet care arata mostenitorii Swarovski in destinatii de vacanta exotice sau care sosesc cu elicoptere pentru a discuta despre viitorul companiei, par sa arate o familie care nu stie ce sa faca.
Un comentator de moda a spus: “Cei foarte bogati nu au nevoie de cristale Swarovski. Ei pot cumpara diamante reale.”
In mod ironic, inovatia si schimbarea starii pietei au depasit Swarovski. Managementul Swarovski ar fi trebuit sa anticipeze aceste provocari, nu doar sa se relaxeze si sa se bazeze pe puterea marcii pentru a le duce mai departe.
Gandeste-te la dinozauri, gandeste-te la Nokia, gandeste-te la Swarovski!
Swarovski: the dying swan?
In 1891, Daniel Swarovski founded the Swarovski empire on honesty, innovation and branding. He admitted the ‘diamonds’ were not real, he was honest. The innovation was an electric cutting machine: a much faster method of cutting glass that replaced the slow, manual work previously done by hand. Hollywood ‘influencers’ like Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monroe, and today, Beyonce, built the brand by flaunting its products.
Swarovski rode the wave. At its height, the Swarovski Crystal Business had around 2,800 stores across the world in 170 countries and employed close to 27,000 people. Revenue peaked at €2.6 billion.
Innovation sustained the Swarovski empire. The company has now perfected the art of creating crystals through a computer-generated technique which makes the ‘diamonds’ even more precise and convincing.
Famous fashion houses flirted with Swarovski, tying up deals. Fashion houses like Chanel and Christian Dior welcomed the liaison. But Swarovski‘s success was built on imitation. And imitation can be imitated by others. That has always been Swarovski’s Achilles heel.
The Austrian company now faces Asian competition, represented by firms that can supply the same type of product at only 1% of the prices charged by Swarovski! And the Covid problem has not helped. Swarovski has been forced to lay off 6,000 employees and will close 750 of its 3,000 stores. In Austria, about 1,200 employees have already been laid off, and 600 additional jobs are under threat in 2021. Revenues are expected to fall by 30% in 2020, to €1.9 billion Euros.
Is the Swarovski swan dying?
Today, about 80% of the company is owned by Swarovski family members. They are faced with a dilemma: go ‘upmarket’ and stay exclusive, or go ‘downmarket’ and damage the exclusive brand? Internet photos showing Swarovski heirs in exotic holiday destinations, or arriving by chartered helicopter to discuss the future of the company appear to show a family that has lost the plot.
One fashion commentator said: “The very rich do not need Swarovski crystals. They can buy real diamonds.”
Ironically, it is innovation and changing market sentiment that has outflanked Swarovski. Swarovski‘s management should have anticipated these challenges, not simply relaxed and relied on the strength of the brand to carry them forward.
Think dinosaurs, think Nokia… think Swarovski!